The giant maple trees restlessly shiver their autumn coat of red and orange in the heart of Dublin’s Trinity College. I wonder if I might be able to hide behind one of the massive tree trunks. Our travel companions rave about food tours done in far flung cities around the world. Having agreed to a Dublin food tour I wonder if it would be too much to ask if the roots of the towering maples might suck me away as they do the rain water thus saving the college from becoming an eternal bog.
A foodie is described as one who looks for new food experiences as entertainment rather than eating on the basis of hunger. Gourmet cooks and food lovers now plug your virtual ears. If there is a poster of polar opposite of foodie you will find a picture of me.
Truthfully I find the whole business of eating a chore. Quite happily a pill swallowed once daily with complete nutritional requirements would suit me just fine.
As the grey of Dublin’s skies darken and Irish mist threatens to sob uncontrollably, our guide Jessica from Secret Food Tours swoops in. Even the clouds can not resist her bright smile and sniffle back their tears.
Announcing it will be just the four of us today on the Dublin food tour, with twinkly eyes she confesses she loves smaller groups to be able to focus on specific interests. With the average group being six to eight participants, I am guessing her bubbling energy embraces those who choose a Secret Food Tour in Dublin like a warm, woolen sweater.
Learning about Trinity College from our Secret Food Tour guide
On this weekend morning Dublin’s downtown streets are just beginning to come alive. Jessica explains that meeting for breakfast is a huge part of socializing in the capital and largest city in Ireland. Aromas of strong coffee and freshly baked pastries waft into the streets drawing friends and families into cozy and colourful doorways.
It is with pleasant surprise to me that our food tour in Dublin begins with time learning about the city and Trinity College. Founded in 1592 by Queen Elizabeth I, Trinity did not accept women until 1904. Jessica, herself a graduate of the college, regales us with the story of the George Salmon, the Provost of Trinity College from 1888-1904.
His statue, with a rather unhappy face, sits near the maple trees now dancing with the sun rays breaking through the cloudy morning. The story goes that Salmon once said “women will enter Trinity College over my dead body.” In 1904, call it coincidence, the predicted events both come true.
Walking on cobbled paths we stop at the entrance to the Trinity College Library and the entrance to the famous Book of Kells. Jessica explains we will not have time to stop to see the four gospels created by Columban monks in 800 AD, however takes the time to explain what we should see if we return on our own.
Now on to Irish breakfast and even I can not resist the enthusiasm of Jessica, this Irish pied piper to Dublin visitors.
While walking to our first stop she asks if anyone has any food restrictions. I sheepishly admit I am not much of a meat eater and expect that in a tour featuring Irish food this may be a horrifying news release. “No problem at all!” says Jessica. My sigh of relief likely heard down the block of flower box laden shops and pubs.
What about the food on the Dublin food tour?
Perhaps it was the way Jessica made us feel like long lost friends visiting Dublin. Or settling in with the locals for breakfast with the song of Irish conversation hugging each of us. Possibly the fact that the Secret Food Tour included whiskey tasting warmed my doubtful heart. Whatever the reason concerns about a food tour vanished like the threatening Irish rain.
Irish Breakfast
The moist and cool weather of Ireland sets the favourable agricultural stage for the simple potato. Since the 1700’s, loaded with vitamins, complex carbohydrates and protein, the Irish diet has relied heavily on potatoes.
The tragic potato famine of the mid 1800’s saw the loss of an eighth of the Irish population. One and half million Irish citizens emigrated to North America.
Potato cake and white pudding
With culinary reverence, the potato stars in most every dish in Ireland. On this morning it is the starter of the Dublin food tour presented as potato cake. Simple ingredients of mashed potato, butter, flour, salt and pepper create a fluffy effect that tastes more like dessert than breakfast. While I have mine with perfectly cooked fried eggs, my travel companions sample white pudding.
Cousin to black pudding (blood sausage), but of lighter colour without the blood, the cupcake shaped sausage is made of pork, suet, oatmeal and spices. Reports from the traveling gang are thumbs up as I dream of licking the plate of my devoured potato cake.
Cheese Please
Most everywhere in Ireland the vibrant, green grass is being happily devoured by cows, sheep and goats. The quality of Irish dairy products from the grass fed livestock can not be denied.
Historical reports indicate cheese production has occurred for centuries in Ireland. However in the mid 1970’s a resurgence of cheese making has brought cheese to the forefront of the Irish diet.
Cheese tasting on our second stop of our Dublin food tour
As we browse a gourmet supermarket filled with fresh products, Jessica organizes our next tasting. Casually chatting on an outdoor bench the mild creaminess of a Irish goat cheese melts in my mouth. Jessica describes the process of the next semi hard cheese being rotated over a smoking barrel to deliver its rich taste.
Lunch time at the pub
Walking into the generations owned pub we settle into a booth snuggled by rich, dark wood. Alluring aromas of traditional Irish foods made from scratch waft from an unseen kitchen in this former 19th century house.
Irish food for the veggie lover with this scrumptious vegetable pie
A dish of Dublin Coddle with its ingredients of bangers, rashers, potatoes and onions for one of our group. Beef and Guinness Pie with the two show stopping ingredients sharing the title for another.
Irish Stew, the a traditional folk dish of Ireland, for the third travel mate. For meatless me, a special treat smiles Jessica. Vegetable pie topped with luscious and creamy mashed potatoes.
Irish Ice Cream for Dessert
How can one possibly decide? Jessica smiles as we roll ourselves into the shop with Irish made ice cream. Tantalizing flavours of Irish coffee (yes there is whiskey in it), Dingle Gin, Caramelized Brown Bread and Irish Buttermilk are the final choices after being given tasting samples of each.
Whiskey Tasting
Once the most popular spirit in the world, Irish whiskey is making a big comeback. Sampling three single malt Irish whiskeys, the smooth tastes seems to take any nippiness out of the air.
Coole Swan Irish liqueur at the Irish whiskey tasting stop
One travel companion who rarely takes a sip of alcohol falls in love with Coole Swan. Not a hip and trendy bird but rather the Irish cream whisky base liqueur. Blended with white chocolate and vanilla, Coole Swan becomes a much sought after refreshment for the rest of our Ireland holiday. Just to take the Irish chill off of course.
An Oyster To Go
I have not eaten an oyster in my whole life. I am certain only the charming Jessica could convince me to do so. Or possibly four tastings of whiskey prior. There on a Dublin side street, right from the sea of Dingle, the oyster swallowing lesson unfolded.
Have you had an oyster?
It was no Irish Buttermilk ice cream that is for certain, but a food adventure I would have never believed I would want to do at the beginning of the food tour.
The secret in the Secret Food Tour
Now it wouldn’t be fair if I would give away the secret would it? The thing I loved most about this Dublin food tour was the secret food. Found only in one location in Dublin, we devoured it at Irish breakfast.
As Jessica explained the history of the secret food my thoughts drifted to memories of late Saturday afternoons as a child. My Mom baking fluffy lemon meringue pies and golden brown buns glistening in their butter shine. The feeling of warmth from the oven and the mouth watering smell of those weekly treats.
Once her baking was complete my Mom would make a little something special with the ingredients at hand for my brother and I. That’s all I can divulge but my hunch is those who grew up in Ireland may be able to guess what the secret food is. For the rest of you you’ll need to experience the tour for yourself!
The final details
The walking food tour meanders through the historic and quaint area of Georgian Dublin. For over 200 years the area has been the place to go for delicious food and known as the commercial hub.
Tours run Tuesday to Saturday however our group of four contacted Secret Food Tours and they ran a tour on a Sunday for us. Rain or shine the tour runs so dress appropriately and best to bring an umbrella. Tickets can be purchased on line here.
Now if you want a smile click on our video below for a quick peek at our time on this Ireland food tour. The finale of oyster swallowing is sure to make your day.
With a huge thanks to Jessica for our treasured time together in Dublin. We were hosted by Secret Food Tours however all opinions, as always, are our own.
