Introduction
This how to install a DreamLine shower base with Oatey drain video is exactly what the title says it is. I'll go step by step on how to install this shower pan and include some of my tips for a leak-proof system you probably haven't seen yet.
🔴 How to Install a DreamLine Glass Sliding Shower Door: youtu.be/yBYPDg5Ljfw
Additionally, I'll go through the Oatey 2" Shower Drain installation as well - I mean, it is part of the shower base install after all, but it's really hard to find information on this online so I thought I'd provide it for you.
For the DreamLine Base - Click HERE 👉amzn.to/3rlV6zs
For the Oatey Drain - Click HERE 👉amzn.to/3tW7KaR
💡 Check out the AirBnb listing here: www.airbnb.com/h/twincreeks
This whole process is actually quite simple:
1) dry fit the pan and level it with some wooden shims
2) mark on the studs the height of the tub around all 3 sides
3) remove pan and lay down some mortar
4) add pan back on and level it with your stud markings on the wall
5) set something heavy on it and let it sit several hours
6) watch the video for the in between details!
Thank you so much for watching. If you have any cool tips, tricks, or concerns, place them in the comments below and let us know how you install a shower base.
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Tools Used:
⚒️⚙️🗜️🔦📐🔧🔨
32" DreamLine Shower Pan: amzn.to/3rlV6zs
30" DreamLine Shower Pan: amzn.to/3aJX5aX
Oatey Shower Drain: amzn.to/3tW7KaR
Window Flashing: amzn.to/3551VyY
Mortar Mixer: Home Improvement Store. Just regular concrete mix.
Flat Trowel: amzn.to/3h900uX
Stainless Steel Screws: Home Improvement Store.
#DreamLine #ShowerPan #HowTo
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Content
What's up everyone today, we'll be installing this dreamline shower pan? Here it's made out of a fiberglass acrylic material, and I got it online.
You can get it there too, or go into your local hardware store for these today we're going to install it, I'm converting a bathtub into a shower and plumbed it completely up to code, but I'll be doing installing a two inch od uh drain here and there's more parts to it than just this, but I'm going to show you exactly how to do it, we're going to start off with the mud.
What do you call it like a mortar bed to lay this onto and plum it up correctly? Let's go so here's where our hard project gets even harder.
My drain sits right where the joist is at so I gotta cut that out.
Rehang some joists in here for support, and one thing after another I'll fast forward through this part, but if you're interested in this whole bathroom remodel head over to my cabin flip playlist linked up here in the corner, I'm converting a cabin in the mountains into a short-term vacation rental property.
You don't want to miss it.
I'll, also use this time to remind you to please smash that, like button below as a free way for you to show your support and subscribe while you're at it.
So here's your main parts of the drain.
Here you have the actual drain, which has this seal, this black seal that you can see in there.
Then you have this rubber gasket, and then you have a fiber piece.
This isn't trash, you don't throw this away, and then you have the actual.
I don't know nut that you screw onto the back of it, and this is the order they go in the nut thing.
The screw-on part the fiberglass and then the rubber then goes the shower.
Pan then goes caulking or plumbers, putty plumber, putty, and then you put this in screw it on together and then you can put the drain filter on top.
Let's do it now.
There will be plastic around this hole here and you don't want to leave that there.
You want to get that plastic off.
Otherwise, the water will seep underneath that it'll always find a way.
It doesn't look like.
There's plastic here even in person, this is just shrink wrapped or whatever to a tee, but you can see the plastic here, so I'm going to pull it off.
Ideally, you just want to pull it off here to give you room, but I I can't find it anywhere there.
It is now there's two imperfections in this pan which I'm not thrilled about there's one here I was hoping it was on the plastic.
It looks like some kind of burn mark and then there's a bumper on the drain.
Not a big deal not worth sending back just in case y'all, don't believe me, it goes rubber, gasket, then fibergast gasket, then the locking nut, it's called a locking, nut the fiberglass gasket and then the locking nut.
Now this is a little bit of over engineering, but I want everything I do to last at least my lifetime, even if I only sell it in 10 years.
I want the other people to buy it to really like what I built now you'll be able to see what I'm doing a little bit clearer once I set this pan down on the floor, but this will basically act as a little bit of a water barrier between where the pan meets my actual sub floor over here, so it'll just give it another three inches or so, for the water to kind of wick away from the tub, because that's a common soft spot where water will seep through get to the subfloor, get around your floors, even if you put a bead of caulk around your pan.
So this is just one more method of mitigation, but we're going to lay this down dry fit it.
So we can mark the levels on the studs around it.
So we know that when we put our bed in place, our mortar bed we'll know exactly where we need to level it up to look at that fiber right there just went straight through my finger, be careful with the stuff okay, so my stuff, my tub, is definitely floating.
My pan is definitely floating towards the middle of the room, which is pretty common because your walls are going to be probably supported by walls underneath or some kind of piers or something down there.
But the middle of your floor here is probably not going to be supported as well, so it'll start sagging after a little while plus we have our patchwork here, so we're going to have to level this out before we actually put the mortar bed down all right.
So now it's all completely level.
So now we're good on the pan.
We need to put our mortar bed down and then it's ready to be installed.
I just use half a bag, usually less mix it according to the instructions on the bag, but in general you should mix it with water for five minutes.
Let it sit for two minutes and then mix it again for two more minutes.
Something else to note here is that I made a 1 8 inch gap around each one of these studs in the framing there.
Just so the tub has a little bit of wiggle room.
So when you're walking on it it doesn't crack, it has room to flex just a little bit now.
Ideally, the shower drain pipe should be about an eighth inch higher than it is right there that way, that rubber seal doesn't expand over the edge of it, but this should work just fine.
The manufacturer also says you can use caulking.
So just in case you do mess up and have too short of a pipe.
The last step is to screw the flange into the studs there and I'll be using some of these stainless steel screws that you see here which have a flat head and that's perfect for this type of situation.
Now, if you remember earlier, I caulked a piece of plastic around the bottom flange or overhang of the pan.
I'm going to show you exactly why we did that.
So now you can see.
I have one extra layer.
This is about four inches out from the the tub itself of just protection from the water, and it can't go under there because it's caulked way up here and so would have to run out this way.
But this just gives it one extra piece of protection you can actually see the previous subfloor here is pretty gray along where this line was because that's a really common place for water to seep through, especially if you don't keep up with the caulk maintenance here.
So this is just perfect now, but my flooring up to this tub and then caulk it again up top and we are set now I'm just gonna, let this sit for 24 hours or at least overnight before I start hanging a cement board and doing everything else for the shower.
But that is all it takes to install these fiberglass pans.
They're, really not that complicated as long as the plumbing is hooked up right and in the right place.
I have some bonus material for you, but I left my material at my primary house.
So I'll see you in the future, so I'm taking some window flashing.
Six inches would be better, but I only have three inch wide flashing tape left, but this gives you a ton of protection over the flanges and covers the screws yeah it's a little bit of overkill, but it works.
This was actually far more stable, even before I put the mortar down than I would have thought you know, I thought it was going to be kind of a plasticky type of feeling a little rocking a little cracking.
It doesn't have any of that.
It's very very sturdy and the bottom just feels like fiberglass, so it's pretty cool guys.
Thank you all so much for watching another thing.
If you're interested in any of the tools I use like the mixer or anything like that, I have it all linked down in the description below and if you are a plumber or tyler or some bathroom remodeler guy who thinks I just did everything absolutely incorrect.
Please, post down in the comments how you would have done it help out me help out other people.
I am just a diy-er.
This is how I did it.
This is how I've been doing it.
Thank you so much for watching.
Please remember to subscribe hit that, like button down below I'll, see you on the next one thanks.
You.
